How to Buy an Antique Engagement Ring

An antique engagement ring is not a compromise on a modern one. It is a different proposition entirely: a piece made by hand, usually in small numbers, often with stones cut before electricity reached the workshop.

Start with the cut. Old mine and old European cuts were shaped by eye to catch candlelight rather than laboratory light, which is why they seem to glow rather than flash. If you have only seen modern brilliants, look at both side by side before deciding what you actually prefer.

Then look at the setting. Edwardian platinum work is fine and lacy; Victorian gold is heavier and warmer. Neither is better. What matters is whether the piece has been looked after, whether the claws are sound, and whether it can be sized without disturbing the original work.

Ask about condition honestly and expect an honest answer. A hundred-year-old ring will show its age somewhere. Repairs are not a fault, provided they were done properly and are declared.

Finally, wear it. A ring that photographs well but catches on everything is the wrong ring. We will always encourage you to try several, in daylight, without hurrying.